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Over eight hours we were jolted to Kong Lo on the backs of struggling tuk tuks and unforgiving seats.

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By hour six, surrounded by incredible panoramas and a setting sun, the pain was almost forgotten.

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Most who venture this far continue their travels before the day is over. A fleeting visit to grab a selfie, and off again.

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The farmers working the tobacco fields, children making mischief, and wives preparing supper make it hard for us to leave. We book three nights.

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It’s the caves people come for. Miles of pitch black caverns, navigated by a dug-out canoe and a smoking on-board motor.

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As evening sets in, a old local man assures us it’s safe to leap from the rocks. We oblige until hunger draws us out of the water.

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In the evenings, a few other Western faces appear. Weathered and smeared in dirt, they’ve fallen in love with this place. Decided to stay in a nearby hut, lending a hand to earn their keep. Four months and counting.

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A couple of days later we leave Kong Lo. Locals wave as we drive by, tempting us to stay longer. Maybe sleep in a hut. Help on a farm. Make this place home.